METALCLOAK VIDEO: How To Install: MetalCloak JL Wrangler & JT Gladiator Baller Joints
This video from MetalCloak walks you step-by-step through installing the JL Wrangler and JT Gladiator Baller Joints™ — a fully sealed, captured, upper-and-lower load-bearing, adjustable ball joint set that’s rebuildable in-Jeep and made in the USA. The tutorial covers pre-install checks, safe vehicle support, removal of the wheel, steering linkage, caliper and rotor, disassembly of the knuckle and bearings, removal of the stock ball joints, careful preparation of the axle housing, precise installation of the lower and upper Baller Joints (including orientation for grease ports and taper sleeve installation), torque and cotter pin procedures, greasing both joints, reinstallation of the bearing and brake components, and final tensioning and cap installation with notes on preventing over-tightening that could affect steering feel.
Complete Transcript with Time Stamps:
[00:00] Hey Scott Becker here with MetalCloak.
[00:06] Today we're going to be installing the Baller Joints for the JL Wrangler and JT Gladiator.
[00:12] Baller Joints offer the best features and combine them with top quality materials to create a replacement ball joint set that is just unrivaled.
[00:18] This is the only ball joint that's fully sealed, captured, upper and lower load bearing, adjustable, on-Jeep Rebuildable and made in the USA.
[00:24] So before we do the installation, let's head over to metalcloakinstructions.com and print out the instructions and read through them completely.
[00:30] Once we understand what we're getting into, and we're certain that we have all the necessary skills and tools, only then should we start in on the installation.
[00:36] Now let's go down to the shop and get started.
[00:42] Our Jeep is already in a safe location and ready to be worked on.
[00:48] So we're going to verify that all the parts listed on the instruction page are accounted for before taking our Jeep apart.
[00:54] Looks like we're good to go.
[01:00] Using a floor jack, raise the driver's side wheel just off the ground to be removed.
[01:06] Support the axle with a locking type jack stand.
[01:12] Remove the tire and wheel.
[01:18] Remove the steering linkage with a 21mm wrench or deep socket and tie rod separator.
[01:24] Using a 21mm impact socket, remove the caliper bracket and caliper as an assembly from the knuckle.
[01:30] Using a T30 torx, remove the rotor retaining bolt.
[01:36] Remove the rotor.
[01:42] Using a 10mm socket, remove the three dust shield bolts from the knuckle.
[01:48] Using a 5mm Allen key, remove the ABS sensor from the bearing assembly.
[01:54] Using a 13mm 12-point socket, remove the 3 bearing retaining bolts from the backside of the knuckle.
[02:00] Carefully slide the unit bearing and axle shaft assembly out of the knuckle and axle housing.
[02:06] Remove cotter pins from the ball joint spindles.
[02:12] Using a 22mm socket or wrench, remove the retaining nut from the upper and loosen the lower ball joint.
[02:18] Leave the lower nut on for a few threads to catch the knuckle from falling when the ball joint spindle releases from the knuckle taper.
[02:24] Remove the knuckle from the C of the axle housing.
[02:30] This can usually be achieved by tapping or hitting with a ballpein hammer on the knuckle around the outside of the ball joint spindle.
[02:36] Use caution not to damage the knuckle.
[02:42] Using a ball joint tool, remove the upper and lower ball joints from the axle housing.
[02:48] Depending on the type of tool used, it may be required to remove the upper before the lower or vice versa.
[02:54] Degrease and wire brush the ID of the ball joint sockets in the axle housing.
[03:00] Get ready to install the lower baller joint from the bottom up.
[03:06] Before pressing in the ball joint, make sure to rotate the housing so that the grease port is facing 30 to 45 degrees inward toward the cast in the steering stop in the C for maximum U-joint clearance.
[03:12] Now install the ball joint from the bottom up.
[03:18] Use caution to be sure that the ball joint cup is going square and smoothly into the C.
[03:24] Press till fully seated.
[03:30] Remove the cap and lock nut from the upper ball joint housing.
[03:36] Do not use the lock nut to draw the housing up through the hole.
[03:42] Slide the ball joint assembly through the upper C with the set screw hole facing rearward.
[03:48] Using the ball joint press, install until fully seated into the C.
[03:54] Once seated, locate the bottom side of the lock nut with thread relief.
[04:00] Install the lock nut until it contacts the axle housing C.
[04:06] We recommend using tape on the inside of the wrench flats to help prevent marring the red anodized surface of the aluminum nut.
[04:12] Using a 2 inch wrench, secure the lock nut.
[04:18] This will only require a slight amount of force with the wrench.
[04:24] Clean the tapered hole and large bore of the knuckle and upper ball joint taper sleeve.
[04:30] Install the sleeve completely into the knuckle and hold in place while feeding both studs into the lower and upper locations in the knuckle.
[04:36] Install the supplied 14mm castle nut on the lower spindle to hold the knuckle in place.
[04:42] Using a 22mm socket, torque to 20-25 foot pounds to seat the taper of the spindle into the knuckle.
[04:48] While pushing the taper sleeve up to contact the taper of the spindle, install the 14mm castle nut on the upper stud to prevent the tapered sleeve from falling out.
[04:54] There should be approximately an 8 inch gap between the tapered sleeve flange and the bottom of the knuckle.
[05:00] Torque the upper castle nut to 50 pounds and then using a 22mm socket or wrench, advance the nut to the next slot in the castle nut that aligns with the hole in the spindle and install the cotter pin.
[05:06] Retork the lower castle nuts to 35 foot pounds, then using a 20mm socket or wrench, advance the nut to the next slot in the castle nut that aligns with the hole in the spindle and install the cotter pin.
[05:12] Install the grease fitting with a flat head screwdriver into the lower ball joint.
[05:18] Then using a grease gun, fill with grease until a slight amount exits the seal at the spindle.
[05:24] Using a 9/32" socket and 3/4" wrench, install the grease fitting.
[05:30] Using the grease gun, fill the upper ball joint with grease until a slight amount exits the seal at the spindle.
[05:36] Carefully slide the unit bearing and axle shaft assembly into the knuckle and axle housing.
[05:42] Using a 13mm 12-point socket, install the 3 bearing retaining bolts from the backside of the knuckle.
[05:48] Using a 5mm Allen key, install the ABS sensor from the bearing assembly.
[05:54] Using a 10mm socket, install the 3 dust shield bolts from the knuckle.
[06:00] Using the T30 torx, install the rotor and rotor retaining bolts.
[06:06] Using a 21mm impact socket, reinstall the caliper bracket and caliper as an assembly to the knuckle.
[06:12] Install the steering linkage, tie rod and drag link with a 21mm wrench or deep socket.
[06:18] Install the tire and wheel.
[06:24] Lower the Jeep to the ground.
[06:30] Snug the lower ball joint tensioner with the included laser cut spanner wrench.
[06:36] Install the set screw into the lower ball joint with a 3/32" Allen wrench.
[06:42] Using a 3/4" socket, advance the upper ball joint tensioning nut until resistance is felt.
[06:48] Install the set screw into the upper ball joint with a 3/32" Allen wrench.
[06:54] Install aluminum cap hand tight until the O-ring seals against the housing.
[07:00] It's very important not to over tighten the assembly as this can cause a sticky feeling in the steering and not return to center easily.
[07:06] If this condition exists after install, we recommend backing off the upper ball joint tensioner nut until loose and bringing it just back into contact where resistance is felt in the wrench as tightening.
[07:12] To learn more, visit us at metalcloak.com.
[07:18] MetalCloak, it's your Jeep only better.
For more information about this kit CLICK HERE.