Installation Instructions: JT Gladiator Game Changer Suspension, RockSport Black Shock

Illustrated PDF available. This page contains the complete text instructions. The full PDF with step-by-step installation photos is available to download below.

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MetalCloak Official Installation Guide

JT Gladiator Game Changer Suspension
RockSport Black Shock

SKU: II-A3230 / A3235 Rev: G Updated: November 6, 2025 Platform: Jeep JT Gladiator
⚠ READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS IN FULL BEFORE BEGINNING INSTALLATION Questions? 916-631-8071 — M–F 7AM–5PM PST
About These Instructions

The MetalCloak experience includes ease of installation. We design for most contingencies, but installation may differ based on your Jeep's condition, configuration, and model year. We continually improve our instructions — if you find anything unclear or that doesn't match your specific Jeep, please call or email us with feedback and photos.

Terms used in these instructions that you may not be familiar with: contact us at 916-631-8071 or [email protected].

⚠ Anti-Seize Required — Included in Kit

MetalCloak uses stainless steel hardware where possible. A tube of Silver Anti-Seize is provided and must be used on all bolts. Only a small amount is needed per bolt.

⚠ Do Not Powder Coat the True Dual Rate Coils

The baking process in powder coating can alter the metallurgical properties of the coils, resulting in loss of lift properties. Powder coating the coils will void any warranty stated or implied in relation to the coils.

⚠ Warranty Notice

This product is sold without warranty expressed or implied. The effectiveness, warranty, and longevity of this equipment are directly related to the manner in which it is installed, used, and maintained. The user assumes all risk. If you are unsure of what you are doing, please leave mechanical or safety-critical work to a skilled mechanic.

Factory Drive Shaft Replacement Recommended

MetalCloak recommends replacing the factory front drive shaft. The factory drive shaft binds at the transfer case side and is too short for the additional travel this suspension provides. An aftermarket drive shaft clears the transfer case and is optimal for maximum articulation.

Section 1 — Tools Required

  • Socket & Ratchet Wrench Set
  • SAE & Metric Sockets and Wrenches
  • Metric Hex Sockets / Allen Wrenches
  • Electric Drill — 1/8" to 1/2" Drill Bits
  • Die Grinder
  • 3/8" Flare Nut Wrench (10mm)
  • Automotive Lift (strongly recommended)
  • Axle Stands
  • Coil Spring Compressor (if needed)
  • Drain Pan (rear brake line work)
  • Pliers and Center Punch
  • Ratchet Strap (for axle centering)
Section 2 Coil Isolator Location Guide
Important Note

MetalCloak suspension systems use upper isolators to correctly position the coil. You must remove the stock isolators before installing the provided ones. Use the table below to identify the correct isolator type for your specific Jeep model.

Coil Isolator Jeep Locations
Isolator TypeJeep ModelInstallation Location
TallJL Wrangler Non E-TorqueUpper Front Passenger
TallJL Wrangler 4xEUpper Front Driver & Passenger
TallJL Wrangler DieselUpper Front Driver & Passenger
TallJT Gladiator DieselUpper Front Driver & Passenger
ShortJK Wrangler (All Models)Upper Front Driver & Passenger
ShortJL Wrangler E-TorqueUpper Front Driver & Passenger
ShortJL Wrangler Non E-TorqueUpper Front Driver
ShortJT Gladiator 3.6L MotorUpper Front Driver & Passenger
RearJL Wrangler Non E-TorqueUpper Rear Passenger
RearJL Wrangler 4xEUpper Rear Driver & Passenger
Control Arm Starting Lengths — Eye to Eye (Starting Points Only — All Jeeps Are Different)
ConfigurationCasterFront UpperFront LowerRear UpperRear Lower
MetalCloak Lift 19.75" 24" 16.5" 23.75"
These measurements are starting points only. MetalCloak recommends seeing a qualified suspension specialist for correct control arm lengths for your specific Jeep.

Front Section 3 — Front Suspension Installation
⚠ Use a Lift and Axle Stands — Required

To install lift components you will need to fully droop the suspension front and rear, but not at the same time. We strongly recommend placing the vehicle on an automotive lift with all appropriate safety precautions. Always use axle stands to support the axle when suspension components are disconnected.

Step 1 Remove Stock Front Components
1

Disconnect Front Sway Bar Links

Disconnect the front sway bar links using an 18mm wrench and a 6mm allen wrench. Save all hardware.

2

Remove Brake Line Brackets from Frame

Using a 10mm socket, disconnect the brake line brackets attached to the frame. Save all hardware.

⚠ Important: The brake line on the lower front control arms, both driver and passenger side, must be removed from the bracket. It may be pried out or cut — be VERY careful not to damage the brake line.
To prevent strain on the brake lines, MetalCloak recommends clipping all zip ties attached to the brake lines.
3

Disconnect Front Track Bar

Using a 21mm socket, disconnect the stock front track bar. Save all hardware.

4

Remove Front Shocks

Use an 18mm socket and wrench to remove the front shocks. Save all hardware.

5

Remove Front Springs

Remove the stock front springs and any spacers that have been used if the vehicle has been previously lifted.

6

Remove Upper Control Arm Heat Shields

Disconnect the upper control arm heat shield on both sides at the frame using a 10mm socket. Save the heat shields and all hardware.

Disconnect any electronics attached to the axle — locker plug, front axle disconnect plug, etc.
Step 2 Install Front Control Arms
7

Remove Front Lower Control Arms

Use a 24mm socket and wrench to remove the stock bolts from the front lower control arms. Save all hardware.

MetalCloak recommends installing one control arm at a time. Loosening but not removing all control arm bolts first will make removal easier.
8

Install Front Lower Control Arms

Install the MetalCloak front lower control arms so that the adjustable joint is at the rear and the arm angles inboard to provide tire turning clearance. Starting length: 24" eye-to-eye.

9

Remove Front Upper Control Arms

Using an 18mm wrench and socket, remove the front upper control arms. Save all hardware.

10

Install MetalCloak Front Upper Control Arms

Install the MetalCloak front upper control arm using the stock hardware. Starting length: 19.75" eye-to-eye.

Step 3 Install Front True Dual Rate Coils & Bump Stops
11

Disconnect Spring Perch Bracket

Using a 10mm socket, disconnect the bracket from the spring perch on the axle. Droop the suspension to gain access to the spring perch.

⚠ Watch the ABS lines — do not let them over-extend or they will break.
12

Drill Spring Perch Center Hole

Drill out the center hole using a step bit, or start with a smaller drill bit and work your way up to 1/2".

13

Install Front True Dual Rate Coils

Install the front coils. Make sure the tightly wound coils are oriented upward.

If the axle does not droop enough to allow the coil to be put in place, a coil compressor can be used to compress the coil for fitment.
14

Seat Coil on Axle Base

Slip the bottom of the coil onto the coil base on the axle. Rotate the coil until it is seated properly on the coil base.

15

Assemble Bump Stop Disks

Select the appropriate screw length so the threads stick out of the bottom disks approximately 3/4". Assemble the bump stops inside the installed coil by feeding the 1/2" countersunk screw through the cover plate and then threading it through the bump stop disks. The center hole in the disk is intentionally small to create the most rigid assembly possible after installation.

Your individual build may require adding or removing bump stop pucks for your tire size.
16

Secure Bump Stop Assembly

The screw is backed by a 1/2" flanged nylon lock nut. Install the nut and tighten the hardware using a 5/16" hex key socket or allen wrench and a 3/4" wrench. Tighten until snug — the hardware will not bottom out but will instead begin to compress the disks.

Step 4 Install Front RockSport Black Shocks
17

Install Lower Shock Mount over Stock Mount

Place the lower shock mount over the stock shock mount and install the factory 10mm spring perch hardware. Tighten fully.

18

Install Provided Bracket Bolt and Nut

Install the provided bolt and nut between the factory shock mount and fully tighten using a 9/16" socket and wrench.

19

Install Outboard Spacer Hardware

Install the provided spacer, nut, washer, and bolt and fully tighten using a 19mm wrench and 8mm allen wrench.

20

Align and Mount Reservoir to Frame

Align the reservoir mount to the frame and brake line bracket. Once aligned, reinstall the brake line bracket over the reservoir mount with the factory bolt.

21

Install Reservoir Mount Spring-Side Bolt

Using the provided bolt and flag nut, install the part of the reservoir mount closest to the spring. Use a pair of pliers to hold the flag nut in place while threading the bolt.

22

Tighten Reservoir Mount and Brake Line Bracket

Using a 5/32" allen wrench, tighten the reservoir mount bolt closest to the spring. Then fully tighten the brake line bracket using a 10mm socket.

If you are having difficulty mounting the reservoir due to the hose, adjust it by: (1) loosening the hose nut a quarter turn using a 9/16" and 11/16" wrench, (2) adjusting the hose to the desired position, (3) re-tightening the hose nut.
23

Install Shock into Upper Mounting Hole

Install the shock into the upper mounting hole and attach with the OE bolt.

You may be required to modify your inner fender wells to provide enough clearance for the shocks.
24

Install Shock Eye into Lower Mount

Install the shock eye into the lower outboard mount using the supplied 1/2" bolt and flange nut from the mount kit.

25

Tighten Upper and Lower Shock Mounting Bolts

Tighten the upper shock bolt using an 18mm socket. Tighten the lower shock bolt using a 19mm socket and wrench.

26

Attach Reservoir with Hose Clamps

Using the provided hose clamps, attach the reservoir to the reservoir mount. Slide the hose clamps down to align with the holes on the mount.

27

Tighten Reservoir Hose Clamps

Using a 5/16" socket, tighten down the reservoir hose clamps.

Step 5 Install Front Track Bar
28

Install Track Bar — Axle End

Install the front track bar, making sure the adjustable end goes into the stock bracket on the axle. Reuse the stock hardware.

29

Install Track Bar — Frame End

Install the fixed end of the track bar into the stock frame bracket. The clearance bends should point towards the front bumper, up and away from the differential cover. Reuse the stock hardware.

30

Tighten Track Bar Hardware and Center Axle

Fully tighten the stock hardware on both ends of the track bar using a 21mm socket and wrench. Tighten the jam nut on the track bar.

Lower the vehicle to the ground to confirm the axle is centered. If not, remove the bolt, adjust the track bar length, replace the bolt, and recheck. A ratchet strap on the frame or axle can help pull the frame in the needed direction if working alone.

31

Professional Alignment — Required

⚠ MetalCloak Strongly Recommends having your alignment professionally checked after changing any suspension components. When lifting any vehicle, basic dynamics are changed. Caster must be set to lifted-vehicle specs, not stock specs.
Step 6 Install Front Sway Bar End Links
32

Install Bottom of Extended Sway Bar End Links

Using the factory hardware, install the bottom of the MetalCloak extended sway bar links.

33

Install Top of Extended Sway Bar End Links

Using the supplied hardware, install the top of the MetalCloak extended sway bar links.

34

Tighten Sway Bar End Links

Tighten with an 18mm wrench for the factory hardware and a 3/4" wrench and 18mm wrench for the supplied hardware.

Step 7 Finalize Front Installation
35

Set Caster, Tighten All Hardware, Reinstall Heat Shields

Adjust the caster angle (target: 6 degrees) and toe as needed. Once set, tighten all hardware, reattach all brackets, and reinstall the upper control arm heat shields. Finally, tighten the jam nuts on all control arms.


Rear Section 3 — Rear Suspension Installation
Step 1 Remove Stock Rear Components
⚠ Support the Axle First — Make sure the axle is fully supported before disconnecting anything.
1

Disconnect Stock Rear Shocks

Using a 21mm socket and wrench, disconnect the stock rear shocks. Save all hardware.

2

Disconnect Axle Electronics and Emergency Brake Bracket

Disconnect the locker plug, breath tube, wheel speed sensor lines, and emergency brake bracket from the axle.

3

Disconnect Rear Sway Bar Links

Disconnect the rear sway bar links using an 18mm wrench. Save all hardware.

4

Disconnect Stock Rear Track Bar

Using a 21mm socket and wrench, disconnect the stock rear track bar. Save all hardware.

5

Remove Stock Rear Coils

Remove the stock rear coil springs.

Step 2 Install Rear Control Arms
6

Remove Stock Rear Upper Control Arms

Use a 21mm socket and 24mm wrench to remove the stock bolts from the upper rear control arms. Save all hardware.

MetalCloak recommends installing one control arm at a time. Loosening but not removing all bolts first will make removal easier.
7

Install MetalCloak Rear Upper Control Arms

Using the stock hardware, install the MetalCloak rear upper control arms so that the adjustable joint is at the frame. Starting length: 16.5" eye-to-eye.

8

Remove Stock Rear Lower Control Arms

Use a 21mm socket and 24mm wrench to remove the stock bolts from the lower rear control arms. Save all hardware.

9

Install MetalCloak Rear Lower Control Arms

Using the stock hardware, install the MetalCloak rear lower control arms so that the adjustable joint is at the frame. Starting length: 23.75" eye-to-eye.

Step 3 Install Rear True Dual Rate Coils
10

Place Rear Coil Cup

Place the rear coil cup on top of the rear True Dual Rate coil.

If the axle does not droop enough to allow the coil into place, use a coil compressor to compress the coil for fitment.
11

Install Rear True Dual Rate Coils

Install the rear True Dual Rate coils with the tightly wound coils oriented upward.

12

Seat Rear Coils on Axle Base

Slip the bottom of the coil onto the coil base on the axle and rotate until properly seated.

Step 4 Install MetalCloak Rear Track Bar
13

Install and Tighten Rear Track Bar

Install the MetalCloak rear track bar using the stock hardware. You may need to lower the vehicle to the ground to install one end of the track bar. Tighten the hardware using a 21mm socket and wrench.

Step 5 Install Rear Sway Bar End Links
14

Install Rear Extended Sway Bar End Links

Using an 18mm socket, install the extended sway bar end links to the frame and on the sway bar.

Step 6 Install Rear RockSport Black Shocks
15

Mount Rear Shocks — Upper

Using an 18mm socket and wrench, install the RockSport Black Shock into the upper shock mount.

16

Mount Rear Shocks — Lower

Using an 18mm socket and wrench, install the RockSport Black Shock into the lower shock mount.

Step 7 Install Rear Bump Stops
17

Mark Bump Stop Hole Locations

Center the rear bump stop onto the rear axle bump stop plate and mark the holes in preparation for drilling.

18

Center Punch and Drill Holes

Center punch the marked hole locations. Drill a pilot hole at each location and work your way up to a 3/8" drill bit.

19

Install Bump Stop Base Puck

Using a 1/2" wrench and a 3/16" allen socket, tighten the provided hardware into the drilled locations.

20

Stack Additional Bump Stop Pucks

Install the next puck (Side B) using the 1-3/4" woodscrews. Continue alternating Side A / Side B until the desired bump stop height is achieved for your tire size.

Step 8 Rear Brake Line Installation
⚠ Place a Drain Pan Under the Caliper — Brake fluid will leak when the lines are disconnected.
21

Disconnect Brake Line from ABS Line

Carefully disconnect the brake line from the ABS line.

22

Remove Stock Brake Line Spring Clip

Using pliers, remove the stock brake line spring clip.

23

Disconnect Brake Line at Frame

Using a 12mm wrench and 16mm wrench, disconnect the stock brake line at the frame.

24

Disconnect Brake Line at Caliper

Using a 15mm wrench, disconnect the brake line from the caliper. Save the bolt.

Make sure the copper washer is removed from the caliper — it must be reinstalled correctly with the new brake line.
25

Install New Brake Line at Caliper

Install the new brake line into the caliper using the stock bolt. Make sure to place a brass washer on each side of the brake line.

26

Install Brake Line at Frame with Spring Clip

Install the brake line at the frame and secure with the provided spring clip.

27

Tighten Brake Line Connections

Using a 12mm wrench and 18mm wrench, fully tighten the brake line at the frame. Using a 15mm wrench, fully tighten the brake line at the caliper.

28

Reconnect Brake Line to ABS Line

Using zip ties, reconnect the brake line to the ABS line.

Step 9 Finalize Rear Installation
29

Lower Vehicle and Reconnect Axle Electronics

Lower the vehicle to the ground and reconnect the locker plug, breath tube, wheel speed sensor lines, and emergency brake bracket to the axle.

30

Adjust Rear Caster and Toe

Adjust the rear caster angle and toe as needed.

31

Tighten All Rear Hardware and Jam Nuts

Once the caster is set, tighten all hardware and tighten the jam nuts on all rear control arms.

Step 10 Bleed Brakes — Critical Final Step
⚠ CAUTION — FAILURE TO PROPERLY BLEED THE BRAKE LINES WILL CAUSE YOUR BRAKES TO BE INEFFECTIVE.
Do not drive the vehicle until brakes have been fully bled and verified.
32

Refill Brake Reservoir and Bleed All Lines

Before the vehicle is ready to drive, refill the brake reservoir and bleed all air out of the brake lines. If you are not experienced with this process or have any reservations, consult a qualified mechanic.

⚠ Professional Alignment Required: Take the vehicle to a professional alignment shop after installation is complete. Caster must be set to lifted-vehicle specifications — never use stock alignment specs on a lifted Jeep.

Questions? We're Here.

MetalCloak Technical Support — Monday–Friday, 7:00 AM – 5:00 PM PST

Email: [email protected]