Jeep JL 3.5" Game-Changer Suspension RockSport Edition Installation Instructions

READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS IN FULL BEFORE BEGINNING INSTALLATION Questions? Call 916-631-8071 M–F 7:00 AM–5:00 PM PST

The MetalCloak experience includes the ease of installation of our products. We design for most contingencies, but installation may be different based on different Jeep condition, configuration and/or year.

We are continually trying to improve our products and instructions — please help us by providing feedback if you find any part of these instructions that do not match your particular Jeep or are not easily understandable. If you have any difficulties at all, please give us a call. Thank you and enjoy your MetalCloak products!

Warranty & Safety Disclaimer

This article is sold without warranty expressed or implied. No warranty or representation is made as to this product's ability to protect the user from injury or death. The user assumes that risk. The effectiveness, warranty, and longevity of this equipment are directly related to the manner in which it is installed, used, and/or maintained. The user assumes all risk. Working on your vehicle can be a dangerous activity — if you are unsure of what you are doing, please leave mechanical or safety-critical work to a skilled mechanic. MetalCloak takes no responsibility for the incorrect use and/or installation of its products.

Tools & Notes on Installation

Tools Required

This list reflects the recommended tools for ease of installation. Equivalent tools can be substituted — for example, Allen wrenches instead of Allen drive sockets. Be sure to use metric on metric and SAE on SAE.

Socket & ratchet wrench
Set of SAE & metric sockets and wrenches
Metal head hammer
Metric hex sockets and/or hex (Allen) wrenches
10" socket extension
3/8" flare nut wrench (a 10mm wrench will work) for brake lines
Cut-off disc and grinder (optional)
Electric drill with 1/2" drill bits

How to Use This Guide

Jeep Model: These instructions may apply to multiple Jeep models but are labeled separately where appropriate.

Options: Because of the number of component options MetalCloak offers, these instructions may contain steps that will not match your configuration. You can skip these steps.

Order: Please follow the instructions in order, from top to bottom, for each section.

Installation Notes: Terms may be used that you are not familiar with. If you have any questions, contact us at [email protected] or call 916-631-8071, M–F 7:00 AM–5:00 PM PST.

Before You Begin: Drive Shaft

MetalCloak recommends replacing the factory drive shaft. The factory drive shaft binds at the transfer case side and is too short for the additional suspension travel this kit provides. An aftermarket drive shaft clears the transfer case and is optimal for maximum travel.

Before You Begin: Coil Powder Coating

MetalCloak does not recommend powder coating your True Dual Rate Coils. The baking process in powder coating can, in some cases, change the metallurgical properties of the coils, resulting in a loss of the coils' lift properties. Powder coating the coils will void any warranty stated or implied in relation to the coils.

Before You Begin: Suspension Droop & Vehicle Support

To install lift components, you will need to fully “droop” your suspension in the front and rear (not at the same time). MetalCloak strongly recommends placing the vehicle on an automotive lift and taking all appropriate safety precautions to secure the vehicle while it is off the ground. Always use the necessary axle stands (or equivalent) to support the axle when suspension components are disconnected, for safety and to ensure the integrity of your suspension system during installation.

Front Suspension Installation

Step 1: Remove Stock Components

1.Disconnect the front sway bar links using an 18mm wrench and a 6mm Allen wrench. Save all hardware.
2.Using a 10mm socket, disconnect the brake line brackets attached to the frame. Save all hardware.
3.Using a 21mm socket, disconnect the stock track bar. Save all hardware.
4.Using an 18mm socket and wrench, remove the shocks. Save all hardware.
5.Remove the stock springs, and any spacers that have been used if the vehicle has been previously lifted.
6.Using a 10mm socket, disconnect the upper control arm heat shield on both sides at the frame. Save the heat shields and all hardware.

Brake Line Caution

The brake line on the lower front control arms (driver and passenger side) must be removed from the bracket. It may be pried out or cut; be very careful not to damage the brake line. To help prevent strain on the brake lines, clip all zip ties attached to them.

Electronics

Disconnect any electronics attached to the axle (locker plug, front axle disconnect plug, etc.) before proceeding.

Step 2: Install Control Arms

Note

These control arm specifications are just starting points, measured eye to eye. All Jeeps are different — MetalCloak recommends seeing a suspension specialist for the correct control arm lengths for your Jeep.

Control Arm Length Reference
	Castor Angle	Front Upper	Front Lower	Rear Upper	Rear Lower
Factory Control Arms	Stock	20 1/4"	24"	17 1/2"	20"
MetalCloak Lift	6 Degrees	19 3/4"	24"	17 1/2"	20 1/8"

Installation Order

MetalCloak recommends installing one control arm at a time. Loosening — but not removing — all control arm bolts first will make removal easier.

7.Using a 24mm socket and wrench, remove the stock bolts from the front lower control arms. Save all hardware.
8.Install the front lower control arms so that the adjustable joint is in the rear, and the arm angles inboard to provide tire turning clearance.
9.Using an 18mm wrench and socket, remove the front upper control arms. Save all hardware.
10.Install the MetalCloak front upper control arm using the stock hardware.

Coil Isolator Reference

MetalCloak's suspension systems use a unique coil design with upper isolators to position the coil. Remove the stock isolators before installing the provided coil isolators. Tall isolators go in the upper front (driver and/or passenger, depending on model) on JL Wrangler 4xE, JL Wrangler Diesel, and JT Gladiator Diesel builds, and upper front passenger only on JL Wrangler Non E-Torque builds. Short isolators go in the upper front (driver and/or passenger) on JK Wrangler (all models), JL Wrangler E-Torque, JT Gladiator 3.6L, and upper front driver only on JL Wrangler Non E-Torque builds. Rear isolators go in the upper rear on JL Wrangler Non-E Torque (passenger only) and JL Wrangler 4xE (driver and passenger) builds. Call 916-631-8071 with questions about your specific configuration.

Step 3: Install Coils and Bump Stops

ABS Line Caution

Droop your suspension to gain access to the spring perch. Be sure to watch the ABS lines so they do not get over-extended and break.

11.Using a 10mm socket, disconnect the bracket from the spring perch on the axle.
12.Drill out the center hole using a step bit, or start your hole with a smaller drill bit and work your way up to 1/2".
13.Install the front coils, making sure the tightly wound coils are oriented upward.
14.Slip the bottom of the coil onto the coil base on the axle. Rotate the coil until it is seated properly on the coil base.

Note

If the axle does not droop enough to allow the coil to be put in place, a coil compressor can be used to compress the coil to allow fitment. Your individual build may also require an addition or removal of bump stop pucks for your tire size fitment.

15.Select the appropriate screw length so that the threads stick out of the bottom disks approximately 3/4". Assemble the bump stops inside the installed coil by feeding the 1/2" countersunk screw through the cover plate and then through the bump stop disks. The center hole in the disk is intentionally small to create the most rigid assembly possible after installation.
16.The 1/2" screw is backed by a 1/2" flanged nylon lock nut. Install the nut and tighten the hardware using a 5/16" hex key socket (or Allen wrench) and a 3/4" wrench. Tighten until everything is snug — the hardware will not bottom out but will begin to compress the disks.

Step 4: Install Outboard Shock Spacer & Shocks

Step 5: Install Front Track Bar

29.Install the front track bar with the adjustable end at the axle mount. Loosely install the factory bolt and flag nut previously removed.
30.Install the welded end of the track bar at the frame bracket, making sure the bend in the bar goes up and over the top of the differential cover. Loosely install the factory bolt and nut previously removed.
31.Using a 21mm socket and wrench, fully tighten the stock hardware on both ends of the track bar, then tighten the jam nut on the track bar.

Note: Centering the Axle

Check side to side for axle center and adjust the track bar as necessary. Shortening the track bar will pull the body/frame to the passenger side, showing more tire outside of the driver side fender. Lengthening the track bar will push the body/frame to the driver side, showing less tire outside of the driver side fender. When measuring side to side, one half of the distance measured is the amount to adjust the track bar to reach center — for example, if the tire sticks out 1" more on the driver side, lengthen the track bar by roughly 1/2" to bring the axle to center.

Alignment Required

MetalCloak strongly recommends having your alignment checked by a professional after changing any suspension components.

Step 6: Install Sway Bar End Links

32.Using the factory hardware, install the bottom of the MetalCloak extended sway bar links.
33.Using the supplied hardware, install the top of the MetalCloak extended sway bar links.
34.Tighten the sway bar end links with an 18mm wrench for the factory hardware, and a 3/4" and 18mm wrench for the supplied hardware.

Threadlocker Recommended

MetalCloak recommends using red Loctite on each of the upper spindles of the sway bar end links.

Step 7: Finalize Front Installation

35.Adjust the caster angle and toe as needed. Once set, tighten all hardware, reattach all brackets, and reinstall the heat shield. Finally, tighten the jam nuts on all control arms.

Professional Alignment Required

When lifting any vehicle, basic dynamics are changed. It is important to take your vehicle to a professional for an alignment after installation. Make sure the caster setting is adjusted for a lifted vehicle, not stock specs.

Rear Suspension Installation

Step 1: Remove Stock Components

Note

MetalCloak recommends removing the bottom rear fender well plate, using an 8mm socket wrench, for easier access to the upper shock bolts.

36.Using an 18mm socket and wrench, disconnect the stock shocks. Save all hardware.
37.Disconnect the brake line brackets and E-brake cable on the axle to help allow for full droop.
38.Using an 18mm wrench and a 6mm Allen wrench, disconnect the rear sway bar links. Save all hardware.
39.Using a 21mm socket and wrench, disconnect the stock rear track bar. Save all hardware.
40.Remove the stock coils.

Electronics

Disconnect any electronics attached to the axle (locker plug, etc.) before proceeding.

Step 2: Install Control Arms

Note

Installation Order

MetalCloak recommends installing one control arm at a time. Loosening — but not removing — all control arm bolts first will make removal easier.

41.Using a 21mm socket and wrench, remove the stock bolts from the rear lower control arms. Save all hardware.
42.Using the stock hardware, install the rear lower control arms so that the adjustable joint is at the frame.
43.Using a 21mm wrench and socket, remove the rear upper control arms. Save all hardware.
44.Install the rear upper control arms so that the adjustable joint is in the front, and the arm angles inboard to provide maximum tire clearance.

Step 3: Install Rear Coils

Note

If the axle does not droop enough to allow the coil to be put in place, a coil compressor can be used to compress the coil to allow fitment.

45.Place the rear coil cup on top of the rear dual rate coil.
46.Install the rear dual rate coils with the tightly wound coils oriented upward.
47.Slip the bottom of the coil onto the coil base on the axle.

Step 4: Install MetalCloak Track Bar

48.Using a 21mm socket and wrench, install the MetalCloak track bar using the stock hardware and tighten all hardware.

Step 5: Install Sway Bar – Option 1

49.Using a 15mm socket, remove the sway bar from the vehicle. Save all hardware.
50.Using an 18mm socket, install the 4" drop bracket in the sway bar's stock location using the factory hardware.
51.When reinstalling the rear sway bar, flip the sway bar so the driver side becomes the passenger side, and the passenger side becomes the driver side.
52.Using the provided hardware, attach the sway bar to the drop bracket and tighten with a 14mm socket and wrench.
53.Install the sway bar end links to the sway bar.

Step 5: Install Sway Bar – Option 2

54.Using a 15mm socket, remove the sway bar mount hardware.
55.Install the sway bar spacer and tighten the provided hardware using a 17mm socket.
56.Install the extended sway bar end links on the sway bar.
57.Install the lower sway bar end link into the stock location using the stock hardware.

Step 6: Install Rear RockSport Shocks

58.Using the stock hardware, install the top of the RockSport shock, making sure the spacer is on the inboard side of the shock.
59.Using the stock hardware, install the lower part of the RockSport shock into the stock location.

Step 7: Install Rear Bump Stops

Note

Bump stop pucks are installed in alternating orientations (Side A / Side B) on the driver and passenger sides to fine-tune bump stop height. Your individual build may require an addition or removal of pucks for your tire size fitment.

60.Install the first bump stop puck (Side A) using the correct holes for your side, with the 5/16" bolt, matching nut, and washer.
61.Install the next puck (Side B) using the 1 3/4" wood screws.
62.Continue alternating Side A and Side B pucks until you reach your desired bump stop height.

Step 8: Re-Route E-Brake

63.Disconnect the E-brake cables from the brake backing plate.
64.Disconnect the E-brake cables from the cable bracket.
65.Re-route the E-brake cables under the crossmember.
66.Reconnect the E-brake cable to the cable bracket.
67.Reconnect the E-brake cable to the brake backing plate.

Step 9: Finalize Rear Installation

Brake Line Slack

After re-installing the rear brake line bracket, bend the bracket upward toward the frame to allow slack for extra droop.

68.Adjust the caster angle and toe as needed. Once set, tighten all hardware and reattach all brake line brackets. Finally, tighten the jam nuts on all control arms.

Professional Alignment Required

Installation Instructions: Jeep JL Wrangler 3.5" Game-Changer Suspension, RockSport Edition

Tools & Notes on Installation

Tools Required

How to Use This Guide

Front Suspension Installation

Step 1: Remove Stock Components

Step 2: Install Control Arms

Step 3: Install Coils and Bump Stops

Step 4: Install Outboard Shock Spacer & Shocks

Step 5: Install Front Track Bar

Step 6: Install Sway Bar End Links

Step 7: Finalize Front Installation

Rear Suspension Installation

Step 1: Remove Stock Components

Step 2: Install Control Arms

Step 3: Install Rear Coils

Step 4: Install MetalCloak Track Bar

Step 5: Install Sway Bar – Option 1

Step 5: Install Sway Bar – Option 2

Step 6: Install Rear RockSport Shocks

Step 7: Install Rear Bump Stops

Step 8: Re-Route E-Brake

Step 9: Finalize Rear Installation

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