Jeep JL Wrangler 3.5" Game-Changer Suspension RockSport Black Edition Installation Instructions

READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS IN FULL BEFORE BEGINNING INSTALLATION Questions? Call 916-631-8071 | M–F 7:00 AM – 5:00 PM PST

The MetalCloak experience includes the ease of installation of our products. We design for most contingencies, but installation may be different based on your Jeep’s condition, configuration, and/or model year.

We are continually working to improve our products and instructions — please help us by providing feedback if you find any part of these instructions that does not match your particular Jeep or is not easily understandable.

If you have any difficulties at all, please give us a call. Thank you, and enjoy your MetalCloak products!

Warranty Information

This product is sold without warranty, expressed or implied. No warranty or representation is made as to this product’s ability to protect the user from injury or death — the user assumes that risk. The effectiveness, warranty, and longevity of this equipment are directly related to the manner in which it is installed, used, and/or maintained. The user assumes all risk.

By purchasing this product and opening the packaging, purchasers expressly acknowledge, understand, and agree that they take, select, and purchase these MetalCloak products from Armored Works, LLC, its affiliates, distributors, and agents as-is and with all faults. Working on your vehicle can be a dangerous activity — if you are unsure of what you are doing, please leave mechanical or safety-critical work to a skilled mechanic. We take no responsibility for the incorrect use and/or installation of MetalCloak products.

Section 1: Tools & Notes on Installation

This is the recommended tool list for ease of installation. Other versions of the same tool can be used — for example, Allen wrenches instead of Allen drive sockets. Be sure to use metric tools on metric hardware and SAE tools on SAE hardware.

Socket & Ratchet Wrench
Set of SAE & Metric Sockets & Wrenches
Metal Head Hammer
Metric Hex Sockets and/or Hex (Allen) Wrenches
10″ Socket Extension
3/8″ Flare Nut Wrench (10mm will work) for Brake Lines
Cut-Off Disc and Grinder (Optional)
Electric Drill, 1/2″ Drill Bits

How to Use This Guide

Read and follow these instructions in order, top to bottom on each page. Instructions may apply to multiple Jeep models but are labeled separately where appropriate. Because MetalCloak offers a number of component options, some steps may not match your specific configuration — these can be skipped.

If any terminology is unfamiliar, or you have questions, contact us at [email protected] or call 916-631-8071 (M–F, 7:00 AM – 5:00 PM PST).

Section 2: Before You Begin

Replace Your Factory Drive Shaft

MetalCloak recommends replacing the factory drive shaft. The factory drive shaft binds at the transfer case side, and it is too short for the additional suspension travel this system provides. An aftermarket drive shaft clears the transfer case and is optimal for maximum articulation.

Do Not Powder Coat Your Coils

MetalCloak does not recommend powder coating your True Dual Rate Coils. The baking process used in powder coating can, in some cases, change the metallurgical properties of the coils, resulting in a loss of their lift properties. Powder coating the coils will void any warranty stated or implied in relation to the coils.

Vehicle Safety During Installation

To install lift components you will need to fully droop your suspension in the front and rear (not at the same time). MetalCloak strongly recommends placing the vehicle on an automotive lift and taking all appropriate safety precautions to secure it while off the ground. Always use the necessary axle stands (or equivalent) to support the axle when suspension components are disconnected, for your safety and to protect the integrity of the suspension system during installation.

Front Suspension Installation

Control Arm Angle Specifications

These control arm specifications are just starting points, measured eye-to-eye. All Jeeps are different. MetalCloak recommends seeing a suspension specialist for the correct control arm lengths for your Jeep.

	Castor Angle	Front Upper	Front Lower	Rear Upper	Rear Lower
Factory Control Arms	Stock	20 1/4″	24″	17 1/2″	20″
MetalCloak Lift	6 Degrees	19 3/4″	24″	17 1/2″	20 1/8″

Step 1: Remove Stock Components (Front)

To help prevent strain on the brake lines, MetalCloak recommends clipping any zip ties attached to the brake lines. Also disconnect any electronics attached to the axle, such as the locker plug or front axle disconnect plug.

Brake Line Caution

The brake line on the lower front control arms (driver and passenger side) must be removed from its bracket. It may be pried out or cut — be extremely careful not to damage the brake line.

1.Disconnect the front sway bar links using an 18mm wrench and a 6mm Allen wrench. Save all hardware.
2.Using a 10mm socket, disconnect the brake line brackets attached to the frame. Save all hardware.
3.Using a 21mm socket, disconnect the stock track bar. Save all hardware.
4.Use an 18mm socket and wrench to remove the shocks. Save all hardware.
5.Remove the stock springs, and any spacers that have been used if the vehicle has been previously lifted.
6.Disconnect the upper control arm heat shield on both sides at the frame using a 10mm socket. Save the heat shields and all hardware.

Step 2: Install Control Arms (Front)

MetalCloak recommends installing one control arm at a time. Loosening — but not removing — all control arm bolts first will make removal easier.

7.Use a 24mm socket and wrench to remove the stock bolts from the front lower control arms. Save all hardware.
8.Install the front lower control arms so the adjustable joint is at the rear, with the arm angled inboard to provide tire-turning clearance.
9.Using an 18mm wrench and socket, remove the front upper control arms. Save all hardware.
10.Install the MetalCloak front upper control arm using the stock hardware.

Coil Isolator Information Guide

MetalCloak’s suspension systems include a unique coil design that uses upper isolators to position the coil. Use the table below to identify where to install the isolators included with your kit. You must remove the stock isolators before installing the provided coil isolators. If you have any questions, give us a call at 916-631-8071.

Isolator Type	Jeep Model	Installation Locations
Tall Isolator	JL Wrangler Non E-Torque	Upper Front Passenger
	JL Wrangler 4xE	Upper Front Driver & Passenger
	JL Wrangler Diesel	Upper Front Driver & Passenger
	JT Gladiator Diesel	Upper Front Driver & Passenger
Short Isolator	JK Wrangler (All Models)	Upper Front Driver & Passenger
	JL Wrangler E-Torque	Upper Front Driver & Passenger
	JL Wrangler Non E-Torque	Upper Front Driver
	JT Gladiator 3.6L Motor	Upper Front Driver & Passenger
Rear Isolator	JL Wrangler Non-E Torque	Upper Rear Passenger
Rear Isolator	JL Wrangler 4xE	Upper Rear Driver & Passenger

Step 3: Install Coils and Bump Stops (Front)

Droop your suspension to gain access to the spring perch. Watch the ABS lines carefully so they do not get over-extended and break.

11.Using a 10mm socket, disconnect the bracket from the spring perch on the axle.
12.Drill out the center hole using a step bit, or start with a smaller drill bit and work your way up to 1/2″.
13.Install the front coils, making sure the tightly wound coils are oriented upward.
14.Slip the bottom of the coil onto the coil base on the axle. Rotate the coil until it is properly seated on the coil base.

If the axle does not droop enough to allow the coil to be put in place, a coil compressor can be used to compress the coil for fitment. Your individual build may also require adding or removing bump stop pucks for your tire size.

15.Select the appropriate screw length so the threads extend approximately 3/4″ past the bottom disks. Assemble the bump stops inside the installed coil by feeding the 1/2″ countersunk screw through the cover plate and threading it through the bump stop disks. The center hole in each disk is intentionally small to create the most rigid assembly possible after installation.
16.The 1/2″ screw is backed by a 1/2″ flanged nylon lock nut. Install the nut and tighten the hardware using a 5/16″ hex key or Allen wrench and a 3/4″ wrench. Tighten until everything is snug; the hardware will not bottom out but will instead begin to compress the disks.

Step 4: Install RockSport Black Front Shocks

17.Place the lower shock mount over the stock shock mount and install the factory 10mm spring perch hardware. Tighten hardware.
18.Install the provided bolt and nut between the factory shock mount and fully tighten using a 9/16″ socket and wrench.
19.Install the provided spacer, nut, washer, and bolt, and fully tighten using a 19mm wrench and an 8mm Allen wrench.
20.Align the reservoir mount with the frame and brake line bracket. Once aligned, reinstall the brake line bracket over the reservoir mount with the factory bolt.
21.Using the provided bolt and flag nut, install the part of the reservoir mount closest to the spring. Using a pair of pliers to hold the flag nut in place can make this easier.
22.Using a 5/32″ Allen wrench, tighten the reservoir mount bolt closest to the spring.
23.Fully tighten the brake line bracket using a 10mm socket.

You may need to modify your inner fender wells to provide enough clearance for the shocks.

24.Install the shock into the upper mounting hole and attach it with the OE bolt.
25.Install the shock eye into the lower outboard mount previously installed, using the supplied 1/2″ bolt and flange nut from the mount kit.
26.Tighten the upper and lower shock mounting bolts using an 18mm socket for the upper bolt and a 19mm socket and wrench for the lower bolt.
27.Using the provided hose clamps, attach the reservoir to the reservoir mount, sliding the clamps down to align with the holes on the mount.
28.Using a 5/16″ socket, tighten down the reservoir hose clamps.

Step 5: Install Front Track Bar

29.Install the front track bar with the adjustable end at the axle mount. Loosely install the factory bolt and flag nut previously removed.
30.Install the welded end of the track bar at the frame bracket, making sure the bend in the bar goes up and over the top of the differential cover. Loosely install the factory bolt and nut previously removed (see note below).

Check side to side for axle center and adjust the track bar as necessary. Shortening the track bar will pull the body/frame to the passenger side, showing more tire outside the driver-side fender. Lengthening the track bar will push the body/frame to the driver side, showing less tire outside the driver-side fender. When measuring side to side, half of the measured distance is the amount to adjust the track bar to bring the axle to center. For example, if the tire sticks out 1″ more on the driver side, it would be necessary to lengthen the track bar by roughly 1/2″ to bring the axle to center.

31.Fully tighten the stock hardware on both ends of the track bar using a 21mm socket and wrench, then tighten the jam nut on the track bar.
32.MetalCloak strongly recommends having your alignment checked by a professional after changing any suspension components.

Step 6: Install Sway Bar End Links (Front)

MetalCloak recommends using red Loctite on each of the upper spindles of the sway bar end links.

33.Using the factory hardware, install the bottom of the MetalCloak extended sway bar links.
34.Using the supplied hardware, install the top of the MetalCloak extended sway bar links.
35.Tighten the sway bar end links with an 18mm wrench for the factory hardware, and a 3/4″ and 18mm wrench for the supplied hardware.

Step 7: Finalize Front Installation

36.Adjust the caster angle and toe as needed. Once set, tighten all hardware, reattach all brackets, and reinstall the heat shield. Finally, tighten the jam nuts on all control arms.

Get a Professional Alignment

When lifting any vehicle, basic dynamics are changed. It is important to take your vehicle to a professional for an alignment after installation. Make sure the caster setting is adjusted for a lifted vehicle, not stock specifications.

Rear Suspension Installation

Step 1: Remove Stock Components (Rear)

MetalCloak recommends removing the bottom rear fender well plate for easier access to the upper shock bolts, using an 8mm socket wrench. Also disconnect any electronics attached to the axle, such as the locker plug.

37.Using an 18mm socket and wrench, disconnect the stock shocks. Save all hardware.
38.Disconnect the brake line brackets and E-brake cable on the axle to help allow for full droop.
39.Disconnect the rear sway bar links using an 18mm wrench and a 6mm Allen wrench. Save all hardware.
40.Using a 21mm socket and wrench, disconnect the stock rear track bar. Save all hardware.
41.Remove the stock coils.

Step 2: Install Control Arms (Rear)

See the Control Arm Angle Specifications table above. MetalCloak recommends installing one control arm at a time — loosening but not removing all control arm bolts first will make removal easier.

42.Use a 21mm socket and wrench to remove the stock bolts from the rear lower control arms. Save all hardware.
43.Using the stock hardware, install the rear lower control arms so the adjustable joint is at the frame.
44.Using a 21mm wrench and socket, remove the rear upper control arms. Save all hardware.
45.Install the rear upper control arms so the adjustable joint is at the front, with the arm angled inboard to provide maximum tire clearance.

Step 3: Install Rear Coils

46.If the axle does not droop enough to allow the coil to be put in place, a coil compressor can be used to compress the coil to allow fitment.
47.Place the rear coil cup on top of the Rear Dual Rate coil.
48.Install the rear Dual Rate coils with the tightly wound coils oriented upward.
49.Slip the bottom of the coil onto the coil base on the axle.

Step 4: Install MetalCloak Track Bar (Rear)

50.Install the MetalCloak track bar using the stock hardware. Tighten all hardware using a 21mm socket and wrench.

Step 5: Sway Bar Installation

Option 1

51.Using a 15mm socket, remove the sway bar from the vehicle. Save all hardware.
52.Using an 18mm socket, install the 4-inch drop bracket in the sway bar’s stock location using the factory hardware.
53.When reinstalling the rear sway bar, flip the sway bar so the driver side becomes the passenger side and the passenger side becomes the driver side.
54.Using the provided hardware, attach the sway bar to the drop bracket and tighten with a 14mm socket and wrench.
55.Install the sway bar end links to the sway bar.

Option 2

56.Using a 15mm socket, remove the sway bar mount hardware.
57.Install the sway bar spacer and tighten the provided hardware using a 17mm socket.
58.Install the extended sway bar end links on the sway bar.
59.Install the lower sway bar end link into the stock location using the stock hardware.

Step 6: Install Rear RockSport Black Shocks

60.Install the rear RockSport Black shocks using the factory hardware, making sure the reservoir is facing rearward.
61.Tighten the shock hardware with an 18mm socket and wrench.

Step 7: Install Rear Bump Stops

62.Identify the driver-side bump stop puck hole pattern on the mounting plate.
63.Identify the passenger-side bump stop puck hole pattern, which is mirrored from the driver side.
64.Each puck also has two mounting faces, referred to as Side A and Side B, which use different hole patterns so pucks can be stacked to fine-tune ride height.
65.Install the first bump stop puck (Side A) using the correct holes for your vehicle side (see steps 62–64 above), secured with the 5/16″ bolt and matching nut and washer.
66.Install the next puck (Side B) using the 1 3/4″ wood screws.
67.Continue alternating Side A and Side B pucks until you reach your desired bump stop height.

Step 8: Re-Route E-Brake

68.Disconnect the E-brake cables from the brake backing plate.
69.Disconnect the E-brake cables from the cable bracket.
70.Re-route the E-brake cables under the crossmember.
71.Reconnect the E-brake cable to the cable bracket.
72.Reconnect the E-brake cable to the brake backing plate.

Step 9: Finalize Rear Installation

Brake Line Bracket

After re-installing the rear brake line bracket, bend it upward toward the frame to allow slack for extra droop.

73.Adjust the caster angle and toe as needed. Once set, tighten all hardware and reattach all brake line brackets. Finally, tighten the jam nuts on all control arms.