MC VIDEO: How to Install: MetalCloak Bronco Game Changer Suspension
This video from MetalCloak walks you step-by-step through installing the Bronco 6G Game-Changer 2.5" suspension system. The system replaces weak factory components with strengthened parts and MetalCloak's patented DuroFlex and DuroTrak bushings, increases clearance for control arms, tie rod, track bar and upper A-arms, and allows fitment for up to 37" tires. The walkthrough covers pre-install checks, disassembly of front and rear suspension components, safe coil clocking and shock stud removal/installation, pressing wheel studs into the lift pucks, installing the DuroTrak spacers and Uni-ball assemblies, tie rod sleeve installation, rear track bar and control arm replacement, fuel tank removal/reinstallation when required, and final reassembly and alignment recommendations.
Complete Transcript with Time Stamps:
[00:00] Today, we're gonna install the Game-Changer Suspension Lift System for the Bronco 6G.
[00:10] Hey. Scott Becker here with MetalCloak.
[00:20] The Bronco game-changer suspension replaces many of the weak points with our exclusive and patented Duroflex and Durotrak bushings while increasing the strength and clearance for control arms, track bar, tie rod, and upper a-arms.
[00:30] But before we do the install, let's go to metalcloakinstructions.com.
[00:40] Print out the instructions and read completely through them.
[00:50] Once we understand what we're getting into and we're certainly have the necessary tools and skills, we can start in on the installation.
[01:00] Now let's go down to the shop and get started.
[01:10] Our Bronco is already in a safe location and ready to be worked on.
[01:20] So we're gonna unbox the contents and verify that all of the parts listed on the instruction page are accounted for before taking anything apart.
[01:30] Okay. It looks like we're good to go.
[01:40] Jack the vehicle up and place a jack stand under the front cross member making sure that the lower a-arm is able to droop completely.
[01:50] Remove the wheel.
[02:00] Using an eight millimeter socket, remove the sensor retaining bolt and disconnect the sensor.
[02:10] Using a ten millimeter socket, remove the wire bracket on the knuckle.
[02:20] Using an eighteen millimeter socket with a three inch extension, remove the brake caliper bolts.
[02:30] To help prevent unnecessary tension on the brake lines, we recommend using zip ties or something similar to hang the brake caliper.
[02:40] Remove the brake rotor.
[02:50] Use a thirty five millimeter socket on a half inch impact driver and remove the axle nut.
[03:00] Loosen the tie rod jam nut with a twenty one millimeter wrench and mark the threads where the outer section meets with the inner section.
[03:10] Remove the tie rod outer section from the steering knuckle.
[03:20] MetalCloak recommends using a jack and a piece of wood to unbind the tie rod by lifting the suspension assembly up.
[03:30] Using the tie rod puller, disconnect the tie rod.
[03:40] Completely unthread the tie rod outer section from the intersection.
[03:50] Remove the upper ball joint nut with an eighteen millimeter socket and separate the ball joint from the knuckle.
[04:00] Remove the upper a-arm pivot bolt using a twenty four millimeter socket and twenty one millimeter wrench.
[04:10] Save this hardware.
[04:20] On the driver side, you must remove a ten millimeter bolt to separate the steering sleeve to allow enough room to remove the factory a-arm bolt.
[04:30] Remove the a arm.
[04:40] Using an eighteen millimeter socket, remove the lower shock hardware.
[04:50] Using a twenty one millimeter wrench and six millimeter Allen wrench, remove the sway bar end links from the lower control arms.
[05:00] Remove the nuts that hold the strut to the strut tower using a fifteen millimeter socket wrench.
[05:10] Be careful not to put extra strain on the axle shaft.
[05:20] Pulling on the axle shaft or forcing it to move in extreme angles can cause internal damage.
[05:30] To tell the difference between the front and rear pucks, set the pucks side by side.
[05:40] The shorter pucks are for the front while the taller pucks are for the rear.
[05:50] Place the provided wheel stud into the top side of the gold zinc puck.
[06:00] The top side of the puck is the side with the smaller holes.
[06:10] Place a long socket on the other end of the puck making sure the socket has enough room for the wheel stud to be pressed in fully.
[06:20] Place the wheel stud and socket into a vice and tighten the vice until the wheel stud is completely pressed in.
[06:30] Repeat this process for the remaining wheel studs.
[06:40] Using a pair of channel lock pliers, remove the roll pin from the strap.
[06:50] Place the lift puck onto the strut and using the stock lock nuts, tighten the nuts using a fifteen millimeter wrench.
[07:00] Caution. The coil will need to be clocked to align the lift puck studs to the factory stud location.
[07:10] This is extremely dangerous.
[07:20] A coil compressor is required.
[07:30] This is the coil compressor that we use at MetalCloak for this task.
[07:40] The coil is under heavy load and if not secured properly, can severely harm or even kill you if not done properly.
[07:50] If not experienced with this process, it is highly recommended that you use an authorized installer to complete this step.
[08:00] Using a vise and socket, press out the lower shock studs.
[08:10] This will help make for an easier installation.
[08:20] Save the studs for reinstallation later.
[08:30] Reinstall the strut into the strut housing and tighten down the nuts with a fifteen millimeter wrench.
[08:40] Align the lower part of the shock and install the factory studs.
[08:50] Use a ball peen hammer to start the studs into the shock mount.
[09:00] Install the factory nuts to the lower studs.
[09:10] We will tighten these to draw the stud through.
[09:20] Use an eighteen millimeter socket, tighten the stud nuts to draw the shock studs through.
[09:30] Install the DuroTrak spacers into the bushings in the a-arm with the spacers on the inside face of the joints.
[09:40] Install the a-arm reusing the factory nut and bolt and tighten the bolt with a twenty four millimeter socket and twenty one millimeter wrench.
[09:50] On the driver side, reconnect the steering sleeve and reinstall the ten millimeter bolt.
[10:00] Install the tapered uni ball spacer into the knuckle and the uni ball.
[10:10] Install the uni ball bolt washer into the top of the uni ball.
[10:20] Drop the supplied bolt through the uni ball and steering knuckle and secure it with the provided nut.
[10:30] Tighten the bolt with a twelve millimeter Allen wrench and twenty two millimeter socket.
[10:40] Install the o-ring to the a-arm dust cover.
[10:50] Using a four millimeter Allen wrench, loosen the a-arm pinch bolts.
[11:00] Install the a-arm dust cover.
[11:10] Retighten the pinch bolts.
[11:20] Remove the jam nut and replace it with the MetalCloak tie rod sleeve.
[11:30] The unthreaded end of the sleeve should be towards the steering rack.
[11:40] Thread the tie rod outer section back onto the inner section and align to the mark on the threads.
[11:50] Reinstall the outer section to the knuckle with a twenty one millimeter socket.
[12:00] Tighten down the sleeve against the outer section with a twenty one millimeter and twenty three millimeter wrench.
[12:10] It is recommended to get your alignment checked after installing the MetalCloak tie rod sleeve.
[12:20] Jack up the lower control arm.
[12:30] Align the axle shaft into the center of the hub.
[12:40] Install the axle nut using a thirty five millimeter socket.
[12:50] Using a twenty one millimeter wrench and a six millimeter Allen wrench, install the sway bar end links to the lower control arms.
[13:00] Reinstall the rotor.
[13:10] Reinstall the brake caliper using an eighteen millimeter socket and three inch extension.
[13:20] Reinstall the abs sensor into the upright using an eight millimeter wrench.
[13:30] Reinstall the ABS sensor wire bracket using a ten millimeter wrench.
[13:40] Make sure everything is fully tightened and then reinstall the wheel.
[13:50] MetalCloak recommends supporting the axle with jack stands before disconnecting the struts in the rear.
[14:00] Remove the wheel.
[14:10] Using a twenty four millimeter socket, remove the rear track bar.
[14:20] Save this hardware.
[14:30] With a Phillips head screwdriver, remove the inner fender liner.
[14:40] Remove the nuts that hold the strut to the strut tower using a fifteen millimeter wrench.
[14:50] Using a twenty seven millimeter socket and wrench, remove the lower strut mount bolt.
[15:00] Set the length of the MetalCloak track bar to match the factory track bar length.
[15:10] Using a twenty four millimeter deep socket, install the MetalCloak track bar.
[15:20] Make sure the adjustable end is at the frame.
[15:30] This is where the adjustment is done to recenter the axle to the vehicle after installed.
[15:40] To remove the rear control arms, you must remove the gas tank, but be sure the tank is supported before removing.
[15:50] Use a nine thirty second socket and remove the hose clamp on the fuel filler neck.
[16:00] Disconnect the fuel vent line.
[16:10] Caution, this can be a little fragile.
[16:20] Remove the bolt securing the fuel tank in place using an eighteen millimeter socket.
[16:30] Before disconnecting the fuel feed lines and fuel return lines, make sure you have something down below to catch the fluid that may leak out and that the area is well ventilated.
[16:40] Disconnect the fuel feed and fuel return lines.
[16:50] Lower the tank four to six inches and disconnect the fuel pump and electrical connections and disconnect the two vent hoses.
[17:00] Completely remove the fuel tank and set to the side.
[17:10] MetalCloak recommends having a second person help remove the gas tank because it can be pretty heavy.
[17:20] Depending on the year or model, your Bronco may come with rear control arm covers.
[17:30] If your Bronco comes with the control arm cover, use a T25 torx to remove this covering.
[17:40] Remove lower control arms using a twenty four millimeter socket.
[17:50] Using the stock lower control arms for reference, adjust the control arms to the same length eye to eye.
[18:00] Install the Duroflex lower control arm using the factory hardware with a twenty four millimeter socket.
[18:10] Remove the upper control arms using a twenty four millimeter socket.
[18:20] Using the stock upper control arms for reference, adjust the control arms to the same length eye to eye.
[18:30] Install the new upper control arm using a twenty four millimeter socket, making sure the jam nut end is at the axle.
[18:40] On the passenger side at the frame, flip the bolt so the head faces outward.
[18:50] This will make it easier to access the lower control arm in the future.
[19:00] Tighten all control arm hardware.
[19:10] Reinstall the fuel tank.
[19:20] MetalCloak recommends again having a second person for this task.
[19:30] Reconnect the fuel pump electrical connection and the two vent hoses.
[19:40] At the front of the fuel tank, reinstall the fuel feed and fuel return lines.
[19:50] Reinstall the bolts securing the fuel tank in place using an eighteen millimeter socket.
[20:00] Reinstall the fuel vent line.
[20:10] Be careful, they can be fragile.
[20:20] Using a nine thirty second socket and wrench, reinstall the hose clamp on the fuel filler neck.
[20:30] To tell the difference between the front and rear pucks, set the pucks side by side.
[20:40] The shorter pucks are at the front while the taller pucks are for the rear.
[20:50] Place the provided wheel stud into the top side of the gold zinc puck.
[21:00] The top side of the puck is the side with the smaller holes.
[21:10] Place a long socket on the other end of the puck making sure the socket has enough room for the wheel stud to be pressed in fully.
[21:20] Place the wheel stud and socket into a vise and tighten the vise until the wheel stud is completely pressed in.
[21:30] Repeat the process for the remaining wheel studs.
[21:40] Using a pair of channel lock pliers, remove the roll pin from the strut.
[21:50] Place the lift puck onto the strut and using the stock lock nuts, tighten the nuts using a fifteen millimeter wrench.
[22:00] Caution. The coil will need to be clocked to align the lift puck studs to the factory stud location.
[22:10] This is extremely dangerous.
[22:20] A coil compressor is required.
[22:30] This is the coil compressor that MetalCloak uses for this task.
[22:40] The coil is under heavy load and if not secured properly, can severely harm or even kill you when the tension is being released.
[22:50] If not experienced with this process, it is highly recommended that you use an authorized installer to complete this step.
[23:00] Using a fifteen millimeter wrench, install the rear strut into the strut housing and tighten down the nuts.
[23:10] Using a twenty seven millimeter socket and wrench, install the lower strut mount bolt.
[23:20] Using a phillip head screwdriver, reinstall the inner fender liner.
[23:30] Make sure everything is fully tightened and reinstall the wheel and lower the vehicle to the ground.
[23:40] Center the axle under the Bronco.
[23:50] Tighten the track bar hardware.
[24:00] Tighten the track bar jam nut using an inch and a half wrench or a large size adjustable wrench.
[24:10] Now that we're all done, all there is to do is to go out and enjoy your Bronco.
[24:20] To learn more, visit us at metalcloak.com.
[24:30] MetalCloak, it's your Bronco, only better.
For more information about this kit CLICK HERE.